Heroes of the Wild: Celebrating World Ranger Day with Inspiring Stories

World Ranger Day falls on 31 July each year, both honouring rangers who have been injured or killed in the line of duty and celebrating the ongoing efforts of rangers to protect Earth’s natural treasures. Below are some inspiring stories from four exceptional rangers who dedicate their lives to conservation. Diana has personally been guided by three, while the fourth, Precious Malapane works as both a ranger and a trainer at the K9 Unit of the Southern African Wildlife College, work supported by Leopard.

You’ll read about experiences as diverse as being part of The Ruaha Carnivore Project (RCP) to help protect lions and other wildlife in Tanzania to gorilla trekking in the rainforests of Rwanda, protecting lemurs in Madagascar, to working with dogs to track poachers in South Africa.

Hamza Visram: Head Guide and Guide Trainer, Elewana Collection, Tanzania 

What is the best part of your job as a guide? 
“Sharing my knowledge of the environment and its creatures with guests and guides.”

What is one challenge that you face as a guide? 
“Making every guest happy because you encounter people with different interests.”

Do you have a positive conservation story you can share? 
“In the Ruaha National Park in southern Tanzania, there are still very remote areas. One such place is Usangu Expedition Camp, on the edge of the wetlands, where I worked for a season.

This area was severely affected by poaching, particularly fishing in the Ruaha River and game meat poaching. The poaching drove animals away to the point that if they heard or saw a vehicle, they would run. We set up camera traps and managed to collar one lioness and three big male lions to track their movements and interactions. This conservation project was highly productive, helping us understand the lions’ movements and territory overlaps. We involved guests in setting up the camera traps, and at the end of their stay, we retrieved the photos together.

Previously, the source of the Ruaha River was being farmed for rice, which reduced the drinking water available for animals during the dry season. Now, it has been rewilded. If you visit, you’ll see herds of sable antelope, roan antelope, topi, and eland, in numbers similar to the migration in the Serengeti. It’s an amazing place.”

What is the funniest question a guest has asked you? 
“I was once asked if elephants eat meat.”

Jean Marie Twambaze: Tour Guide, Rwanda 

What is the best part of your job as a guide? 
“I take travellers to different parks in Rwanda, such as Volcanoes, Akagera and Nyungwe National Parks. I love meeting people from different cultures, showing them the best of Rwanda and sharing my country’s conservation success stories. I love learning from people of different cultures too.”

Do you have a positive conservation story you can share?
“Yes, seeing the mountain gorilla population rise due to conservation efforts (by both the government and its partners) and seeing communities around parks developing and changing their mindset towards wildlife and parks. The communities’ involvement is just amazing.”

What is one challenge that you face as a guide?
“Guiding is fun but can be challenging sometimes. I try to set the correct expectations and this helps. However, I meet visitors who arrive with incorrect information and some of them are unwilling to adapt to have realistic expectations. Managing that situation can be challenging, but I always try to turn it into a positive experience.”

What is the funniest or strangest question a guest has asked you?
 “Mountain gorilla babies are so cute and everyone would love to touch them, but of course this is not allowed. A traveller once asked if she could help a mother gorilla babysit her baby. That was both funny and strange.”

Herina Randrianarisoa: Guide in Ranomafana National Park, Madagascar 

What is the best part of your job as a guide? 
“My favourite part of guiding is sharing Madagascar’s rich fauna and flora with the world.”

Do you have a positive conservation story you can share? 
“The forest (and its creatures) needs to be protected because there are many benefits to protecting it.” An example of this was that earlier this year, critically endangered greater bamboo lemurs were moved from Ivato to Ranomafana National Park, to help protect them and ensure their survival.

What is one challenge that you face as a ranger? 
“The COVID-19 pandemic between 2020 and 2022 was the most challenging period for me.”

What is the funniest or strangest question a guest has asked you? 
“A guest once asked, ‘Have you seen a lemur meeting before?”

Precious Malapane: K9 Unit Deployment Manager and Trainer, Southern African Wildlife College 

What is the best part of your job as a ranger?
 “Being the eyes and ears of nature and working with K9s to protect wildlife.

In the past, when we came across tracks of suspects, we had to follow them visually, which took much longer. Now, we can use the dogs to find suspects, sometimes before the end of the day. When we find suspects, we give them the run of their life. We chase them, and they drop their backpacks as they flee.

To explain further, first, the line dogs go with a ranger and follow the tracks. When we’re about an hour behind the suspect, we call in the helicopter with the pack dogs – up to six dogs can fit in the helicopter at a time. The pack dogs then run free and chase down the suspect while we keep an eye on them from the helicopter. It’s a Big 5 game area, and by keeping the helicopter close, we can deter other animals from interfering with the dogs. When the dogs catch up to the suspect, we land, take charge of the situation, and make the arrest.”

Do you have a positive conservation story you can share? 
“Using K9s has reduced violent confrontations with poachers, saving lives on both sides. A life cannot be bought, it’s something that God gives and once it’s taken you can’t get it back. Using the dogs has helped protect both the rangers and the suspects’ lives.”

What is one challenge that you face as a ranger?
“Facing gender biases and dangerous wildlife encounters are significant challenges. As a woman, some men make you feel like you don’t know what you’re doing. We need support from the male rangers. The only thing that makes us different is our body structure. We can do the same hours and cover the same kilometres without a problem. 

Another challenge is that we do get charged by animals. I was with a training group and a dog and we were charged by a bull elephant. I managed to communicate with the elephant with body language, raising my hands and shouting. Thankfully, he moved on and fortunately no one was harmed in these incidents.”

What is the funniest or strangest moment you’ve experienced while working with the dogs? 
“Training puppies can be funny. When you start training them at six months old, they speak a different language to us. But, when the dog understands what you want, it’s like a light switch coming on.”

The ranger and guides interviewed here are only a tiny representation of all those doing critical work to protect Africa’s incredible natural treasures. You can support rangers and conservation efforts in a number of ways: by visiting the areas, by donating, volunteering, or spreading the word. 

Happy travelling,
The Leopard Team

P.S.  We’d love to hear your thoughts on this newsletter. Share your feedback or questions with us!

P.S. When you travel with Leopard, a portion of your travel spend directly supports the K9 Dog Unit’s vital work. However, regardless of your travel destination in Africa, your visit helps support local economies and, when visiting conservation areas, the wildlife too.

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Unforgettable South African Journeys with the Leopard Team

Once a month for the next few months, you’ll hear from the vibrant women who make up the Leopard team, about their favourite holiday experiences in Africa. I hope that you’ll get to know the team a bit better through these personal accounts and also appreciate their passion for Africa and its diversity. Each Leopardess has her special interests and we draw on each of these to help plan absolutely detailed and tailor-made trips to Africa for our clients.
– Diana

Here’s Elise’s account of a few of her travel highlights in South Africa. 

When Diana asked me to write about my favourite African travel memory, it was tricky to narrow it down to one experience. As a result, I’ve summarised some highlights of one of my favourite African destinations. My own country, South Africa.

Perhaps you know parts of South Africa well, or perhaps you’ve never visited. However much, or little, of this –  the southernmost part of our large and beautiful continent – you’ve experienced, I hope my adventures will inspire you to explore and enjoy more of this vibrant and diverse country.

My favourite South African safari experience
For travellers from outside the continent, the desire to see a muscular lion – with jaws that can rival a steel gin trap and a mane that would make even Jennifer Aniston’s hairstylist jealous – comes as no surprise. Depictions of lions in literature and art date back thousands of years, across cultures. The oldest cave paintings of lions, painted between 13,000 and 30,000 BC, were discovered in the Chauvet Cave and Lascaux in France’s Ardèche region and lions are depicted on vases in Iran, excavated near Lake Urmia, around 2,600 BC.

Although I’ve had the privilege of numerous lion sightings on safari and know why the lion is regarded as the king of the beasts, my favourite big cat has always been the leopard. This has nothing to do with the Leopard brand, but it is a happy coincidence. My appreciation for these elusive creatures, with lithe bodies and a distinctive coat, began with a school project on leopards I did when I was 11.

This brings me to my favourite safari experience. It took place in the  Sabi Sand Private Game Reserve, which shares unfenced borders with the world-renowned Kruger National Park. The area is known for its leopard sightings and although sightings are never guaranteed, it’s where I saw my first leopard. 

When we encountered the large male he was lying in a clearing below a tree, having scoffed the best part of an impala. The remainder of his dinner was wedged in a fork between branches above. He was panting heavily from the effort of it all – and probably from how hard his digestive system was working. After a few minutes, he got up and sauntered past our vehicle – a whisker’s breadth away. Then almost effortlessly, he hoisted his recently expanded frame up the tree trunk and back to his kill. The memory of watching him as night fell, with the nocturnal sounds of the bush filling our ears, is something I’ll always cherish.

My favourite South African seaside experiences
I’m an ocean lover. To me there’s nothing more relaxing than the sound of lapping waves, the smell of salt in the air and a view over the seemingly endlessly blue. My dad passed his love of the seaside on to me. We enjoyed family holidays along South Africa’s coastline, as well as in Greece, however, it’s in South Africa that my love of the ocean was born and continues to this day. 

As a child, we’d escape the Cape’s winters and visit KwaZulu-Natal and the northern parts of South Africa’s Wild Coast on holiday where we could enjoy the subtropical warmth of the air and mild temperature of the ocean. In summer, we’d head to Cape Town’s Clifton Fourth Beach. Here, I learned to love the icy yet refreshing water amid cries from hawkers selling ice cream and cool drinks, shouting, ‘water for your daughter,’ ‘ice to make you nice,’ and ‘a lolly to keep you jolly.’

This love of family time at the sea has been passed on to my daughters and we continue to explore South Africa’s coastline together, particularly in and around Cape Town. No matter how long I’ve lived here, there always seems to be a new cove or tidal pool waiting to be discovered. We’ve visited Instagrammable destinations further afield on the Cape West Coast too, like Port Owen’s marina or Kraalbaai, in the West Coast National Park. On a recent trip with my husband along the Garden Route, we spent time kayaking through Thesen Island’s waterways, in Knysna. Another first.

However, my most thrilling African marine experience has to be freediving the Sardine Run off the coast of Port St Johns, in the Eastern Cape. 

While slipping off the side of an inflatable rubber duck into the middle of the ocean heaving with marine life is not everyone’s cup of tea, it was mine. I’ve been fortunate enough to do so on more than one occasion, swimming with super pods of dolphins that stream by in what seems like a perpetual parade. We also had close encounters with humpback whales and watched from beneath the water in wonder as Cape gannets dropped from the sky to dive bomb tightly corralled bait balls of sardines.

If you prefer shallow calm water free of large predators, South Africa has more than its fair share of these. For instance, the famous penguin beach, Boulders, which was recently voted the second best beach in the world in the BeachAtlas Golden Beach Award 2024, is one of my favourite too and is certainly worth a visit.  – Elise (Travel Journalist, Content Strategist & Copywriter)

There are so many reasons to explore the wonders of South Africa – from its pristine beaches to being surrounded by nature in the bush. 

Discover vibrant cities and explore Winelands that boast world-class wines and cuisine. Immerse yourself in cultural experiences where you can meet people who practise ancient traditions passed down through generations, or take a cooking class to learn how to make local dishes. There are also exquisite lodges and hotels where you can soak up the scenery and experience the very best service.

We’d love to help you experience the finest that Africa has to offer by sharing our local knowledge and helping you craft the perfect tailor-made itinerary.

Happy travelling,
The Leopard Team

From Zimbabwe’s Kariba Dam to Mana Pools by canoe

Once a month for the next few months, you’ll hear from some of the vibrant women who make up the Leopard team, about their favourite holiday experiences in Africa. I hope that you’ll get to know the team a bit better through these personal accounts and also appreciate their passion for Africa and its diversity. Each Leopardess has her own special interests and we draw on each of these in order to help plan absolutely detailed and tailor-made trips to Africa for our clients.
– Diana

Here’s Helen’s account:
Africa is such a magnificent continent and it has so much to offer, that when Diana asked me to write about my favourite African destination, it was quite difficult. After running through all the incredible experiences I’ve had in Africa and beautiful places that I’ve visited,  I’ve settled on a destination situated at the roof of Zimbabwe: The Zambezi River and Mana Pools National Park. My father was the head of research at the Kariba Fisheries Institute and he embodied a profound and genuine love for nature, which he instilled into his daughters. His work gave us the opportunity to visit places that were not for the faint hearted. 

In November 1981, our farewell gift, before we left Zimbabwe for South Africa, was to join a group of young survival students accompanied by a Selous Scout, on a canoe trip down the Zambezi River from the Kariba Dam wall to Mana Pools. (The Selous Scouts was a unit of the Rhodesian Army that operated during the Rhodesian Bush War from 1973 until 1980 when the country was reconstituted as Zimbabwe.)

Dad had arranged for a tin boat with an outboard motor to assist the canoeists. We started our trip by following a footpath that  led  down the steep gorge from Kariba to the Zambezi River that had been carved out by elephants over many years. Although it was morning, it was already hot. I was not concerned about the heat, I was filled with nervous anticipation as we were completely immersed in the wild. 

The nights were spent in the open on the sandy bank of the Zambezi River. I lay in my sleeping bag on the first night, looking up and I was awestruck at the vastness of the African sky. The stars shimmering in the deep black were dancing to the song of the bush, to the rustle of the wind in the trees, to the water lapping on the shore, to the crickets chirping, to a distant hoot of an owl and even to the buzz of mosquitoes.

As we made our way down the great Zambezi River the following day, we began counting the crocodiles and hippos. The banks were alive with animals. On arrival in Mana Pools, we disembarked and set up camp on the riverbank. I remember thinking, “Wow!”! This is what the Garden of Eden must have looked like. The bush was teaming with animals, from a little dung beetle rolling his dung ball to the majestic, wrinkly, grey, giants, the elephants. The vegetation was pristine, and the only pathways were those made by the animals. Not many humans had passed through there due to the bush war. 

Our group of students was encouraged to forage for food on the land as this was part of the group’s survival training. We set off to scour the land for our dinner. We walked over the ridge formed by the riverbank and froze in our tracks. There were two round ears above the grass line. We spotted another pair and another. The Selous scout checked the direction of the wind and quickly got his gun ready. Crouching lower he gestured with his hands for us to be very quiet and retreat to the riverbank. We had stumbled upon a pride of lions. They are such magnificent, powerful beasts and command respect. We needed to get out of their territory as we didn’t want to be their dinner!

That night we all slept lightly. I thought I would be clever and place my sleeping bag near the campfire. I withdrew very fast as I heard and saw a few scorpions scuttling towards me. The heat of the fire had disturbed them and with their stings curled above their heads, they were hot footing it to my sleeping bag. My choice was lions or scorpions. I decided on neither and chose Dad!

While wild camping and travelling down the mighty Zambezi by canoe is not everyone’s idea of fun, I highly recommend visiting the floodplains of Mana pools. It is a tranquil sanctuary that offers an exquisite blend of adventure and relaxation. It’s a  place where you can fully immerse yourself in nature and leave the troubles of the world behind. 

Today you have the option of staying in comfort, in one of the lodges, while still being able to immerse yourself in the wonderful wild of Mana Pools. Another benefit is that you won’t have to hunt for your food or fend off hungry predators. The lodges offer a luxurious experience where you can enjoy the sites and experiences of the wild in safety. – Helen du Toit (Leopard’s Finance and Operations Manager)

Happy travels,
The Leopard Team

P.S. If you’d like to experience the wonder of Mana Pools, reply to this email. We’d love to help you plan your next African getaway.

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5 Benefits of planning your December vacation now

There are several advantages to planning your December holiday travel now. Before we share those with you, here’s what one of our clients had to say about working with Leopard. 

“Thanks for the trip of a lifetime! There’s nothing like travel organised by a local who has actually visited the places. We are so glad we worked with Diana for our first big Africa trip — 3 weeks across Botswana, Namibia and South Africa for two couples. Diana listened carefully to our preferences and made thoughtful suggestions; she was respectful of our budget and delivered very good value for money; and she was responsive to our questions. Will definitely be back, and we wouldn’t consider working with anyone else.”

We love getting feedback from Leopard travellers. If you’re curious to read more experiences, you’ll find Leopard reviews on Trustpilot.

Benefits of planning your December vacation now

December might seem like a distant speck on the horizon. However, here are some reasons to plan your December getaway to Africa now. 

1. Greater availability of accommodation and avoiding last-minute stress
December is notorious for being a busy time with heightened travel demands, crowded attractions (particularly in cities, like Cape Town) and limited accommodation availability.  

Even in the African bush, where you’ll be free of crowds, it’s still busier than usual and you’ll want to have secured your ideal accommodation well ahead of time. Beautiful locations with beachfront access, like South Africa’s Western Cape and KwaZulu-Natal provinces, and places like Mauritius, or Mozambique also get booked up ahead of the southern hemisphere’s summer. 

By planning early, you increase your chances of securing your preferred lodging, whether it’s a cosy bed and breakfast, a luxury resort, or a charming boutique hotel. You’ll also have access to a wider selection, including places that have unique amenities tailored to your needs.

2. Access to insider tips and recommendations
Planning your December break early gives you ample time to consider recommendations and insights from Leopard’s local travel experts. Whether it’s discovering hidden gems, uncovering off-the-beaten-path attractions, or learning about local customs and traditions, tapping into the collective wisdom of our seasoned travellers at Leopard will help enrich your holiday experience and provide valuable guidance for planning a memorable trip. Insider knowledge will without doubt enhance your itinerary and make your December break truly exceptional.

Perhaps you’re planning a family safari and you’re only aware of South Africa’s famous Kruger National Park. Leopard can help you consider other options, for example, Madikwe. This is a big-five safari destination with many family-friendly lodges. It’s also situated in a malaria-free area, which could give you that added peace of mind as a parent. Although the southern hemisphere’s winter months are considered the best game-viewing months, December’s green season has its appeal, with lots of migratory birds visiting the area and young animals that were born in the spring.

3. Securing access to popular attractions
If you’re planning to travel to Cape Town and dine in its culinary hotspots such as The Test Kitchen, La Colombe, Chef’s Warehouse at Tintswalo Atlantic, Fyn, Wolfgat, or The Pot Luck Club, it’s advisable to secure a booking well in advance.

It can be disappointing to travel to a destination only to find that you’re unable to enjoy the activities or experiences you had hoped for because you tried to book too late. Booking ahead for other activities like the Cape Canopy Tour or tickets for the Table Mountain Aerial Cableway will help ensure that your December holiday unfolds the way you hope.

4. Peace of mind and reduced stress
By taking care of your December break plans well in advance, you’ll enjoy the peace of mind that comes with knowing everything is organised and under control. You can avoid the anxiety and stress associated with last-minute preparations, such as securing travel documents and permits or making rushed arrangements. 

Instead, you can approach your holiday with a sense of calm and relaxation, knowing that everything has been taken care of well ahead of time.

5. Extended anticipation
One of the often-overlooked benefits of early planning is the extended period of anticipation and excitement leading up to your December break. By laying the groundwork months in advance, you prolong the pre-trip anticipation, allowing you to savour the excitement, plan activities, and countdown the days with eager anticipation.

Studies have also shown that “those who are waiting to go on a holiday are much happier with their life as a whole, experience less negative or unpleasant feelings and thus enjoy an overall net positive effect or pleasant feelings.” 

You probably didn’t need scientific research to verify this, as you know that planning your next vacation gives you something wonderful to look forward to and time to dream about your upcoming holiday.

A curated travel experience
Whether you want the perfect honeymoon or family escape, or whether you’re an outdoor adventurer, road tripper, wildlife enthusiast, wine connoisseur, trendsetter, or interested in social impact, Leopard will curate your ideal travel experience.

By starting to dream and plan now, we can help you leisurely map out your itinerary, make informed decisions, and allow you to savour the anticipation of your upcoming holiday without the pressure of getting visas or permits in a last-minute rush.

One of the ways Leopard will help you is by removing the tedious need to hunt through impersonal booking sites, or scroll endlessly through Instagram in the hope of finding inspiration. We’ll inquire about your needs and desires and then present a carefully tailored travel plan that dots all the ‘i’s and crosses all the ‘t’s so that you can relax and enjoy a carefree holiday – exactly as you’re meant to.  

We’ll also be on hand 24/7 in the unlikely event that something does go wrong. Although these things seldom happen, we once had a family travelling with Leopard and one of the children accidentally left a backpack behind at the airport gate, when they flew home. Fortunately, we managed to locate it immediately, retrieve it and get it back to them in Europe. Had they booked through a large booking site, there may not have been anyone on hand to step in and take care of this. We like to think that, among the many other things like our local knowledge, it’s our personal touch that sets us apart. 

If you’d like to start dreaming out your December vacation together, do get in touch.

Happy travelling,
The Leopard team

P.S.  While we don’t recommend last-minute bookings if you do find yourself up a creek without a paddle because your travel plans have run aground and you need help to plan something new and exceptional, it’ll be our privilege to step in. Whatever the time frame, we’ll do our utmost to coordinate and deliver a tailor-made solution for you that’s seamless and stress free.

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Discovering Mozambique: A Family Adventure in Paradise

Once a month for the next few months, you’ll hear from the vibrant women who make up the Leopard team, about their favourite holiday experiences in Africa. I hope that you’ll get to know the team a bit better through these personal accounts and also appreciate their passion for Africa and its diversity. Each Leopardess has her own special interests and we draw on each of these in order to help plan absolutely detailed and tailor-made trips to Africa for our clients.
– Diana

Here’s Daphnée’s account of her many visits to Mozambique. 

I have a deep love for swimming in the ocean and exploring coral reefs. That’s one of the reasons I’ve decided to share my passion for my favourite African country, Mozambique, with you.

On our first family getaway to Mozambique, the most magical moment of our stay was our boat trip to Benguerra Island, located about 45 minutes from Vilanculos. On the way, we were lucky enough to spot a dozen dolphins cutting through the water effortlessly next to our boat. After anchoring in the archipelago, we went snorkeling at Two Mile Reef. While we marvelled at the multicolored fish and coral, a crew member prepared a private barbecue for us on a deserted beach in Benguerra. The crystal-clear water and sparkling white sand reminded me of time I’d spent in The Whitsundays islands, in Australia. It was simply heavenly, like a living postcard.

The beaches of this archipelago are also a favourite refuge for dugongs, a species of manatee renowned for its shyness and difficulty to observe. I was lucky enough to stay in two sublime lodges, Azura on Benguerra Island and Anantara on Bazaruto Island. At the end of my stay, I also enjoyed a short helicopter flight from Vilanculos Airport over the Bazaruto archipelago. We flew over shades of turquoise and white, watching the turtles from above, which looked like brown spots in this fantastically colourful sea. 

Our second family trip to Mozambique was shorter, as we simply had to renew our visas. We chose the Machangulo peninsula, just opposite Maputo and an hour’s flight from Johannesburg, which was logistically ideal. Besides being easily accessible from Joburg, I also recommend this pristine destination to nature lovers and snorkellers. You access Machangulo by boat from Maputo. The crossing takes 30 minutes and the welcome you receive on the other side is once again very warm, with singing and dancing. Mozambicans have a real sense of hospitality. They are such friendly people! 

While at Machangulo, we spent a whole day snorkelling in the shallow waters of the marine reserve on Inhaca Island, just off the peninsula. We saw a large number of lion fish, and the corals were intact, unlike those on Mauritius, for example, which are gradually losing their colour. Machangulo Lodge is perched on top of a dune, offering breathtaking views of the sea. We took long walks along the beaches, climbed the dunes and introduced the kids to bodyboarding right in front of the lodge – a perfect spot!

Our most recent trip to Mozambique was last Christmas. We set off from Johannesburg and rented a 4×4 equipped with two tents on the roof and camping gear. It was a totally different way of discovering the country! Our goal was to reach Vilanculos, the country’s little paradise, after covering almost 2000 km. We travelled with another family, so there were four adults and seven children in total. 

We had some great moments, like a trip on a dhow (a traditional boat) to snorkel and see seahorses. It was the first time I’d ever seen one! The children were also amazed. These strange little creatures live in seagrass meadows clinging to seaweed and remaining motionless!

We had a great time interacting with the locals, especially in the markets, hairdressers and small restaurants. Communication was sometimes difficult, because Mozambicans speak Portuguese and I’m not fluent in that language, but I learned a few words.

Mozambique is the seventh poorest country in the world. So, I strongly suggest that you and your children pack an extra, small suitcase to donate to the community. A great trip is not only about the comfort of your accommodation and the idyllic scenery, but also about sharing with the local communities and enjoying the smiles you receive. Mozambique is a blissful destination and will provide you with a family holiday experience that you’ll always remember.
– Daphnée

Happy travels,
Diana, Daphnée and the rest of the Leopard Team

P.S. Reply to this email if you’d like us to curate your perfect family holiday, romantic getaway or solo escape in Mozambique. Alternatively, let us know which African holiday destination you’d like us to write about next.

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Luxury In Namibia’s Deserts: Where Nature’s Canvas Comes Alive

From the otherworldly dunes of Sossusvlei to the wildlife-rich plains of Etosha National Park, Namibia offers a unique and captivating experience. It’s Sub-Saharan Africa’s driest country and its desert landscapes offer a distinctly different experience from some of the more verdant landscapes of its neighbouring countries. While the wildlife is not as highly concentrated as in some other areas in Africa, you can see the big five and many desert-adapted species like the gemsbok, with its spear-like horns, and the endangered black rhino.

One of the highlights of a visit to Namibia is the opportunity to stay at the Wolwedans Desert Lodge, a luxurious oasis set in the NamibRand Nature Reserve. 

Here, guests are treated to unparalleled views of the surrounding desert, with its red dunes, mountains and endless sky. The lodge offers a range of activities designed to immerse visitors in the natural beauty of the desert, from guided nature walks and scenic drives to hot air balloon rides over the dunes. For those seeking relaxation, the lodge’s spa treatments include a Marula Oil Massage to help you unwind and rejuvenate in the tranquillity of the desert.

Situated in one of the naturally darkest areas of Earth that is still easily accessible, the NamibRand Nature Reserve is recognized as an International Dark Sky Reserve and boasts incredible night skies for you to marvel at.

Nearby, Little Kulala provides a base for exploring the iconic dunes of Sossusvlei. Situated on a private reserve bordering the Namib-Naukluft National Park, the lodge offers unrivalled access to some of the highest dunes in the world. 

You can embark on guided hikes to watch the sunrise over the dunes, or take a scenic drive to explore the starkly beautiful landscape. We always recommend an early morning hot air balloon ride. This memorable experience will give you a birds-eye view as the sunlight dances on the dunes below.

To the north west, Shipwreck Lodge offers a different but equally unforgettable experience. Located on the remote Skeleton Coast, this eco-friendly lodge is inspired by the shipwrecks that dot the coastline, blending seamlessly into its rugged surroundings. Here you can explore the eerie beauty of the Skeleton Coast on guided excursions, learning about the area’s history, geology and wildlife. 

If you want to enjoy a safari, Etosha National Park – Namibia’s premier wildlife destination – is ideal. Home to an array of wildlife, including elephants, lions, and giraffe, the park is also a great destination to see the critically endangered black rhino. When visiting Etosha, you may have the  opportunity to witness the drama of predator-prey interactions at the park’s numerous waterholes. As the sun sets and temperatures cool, animals gather at these vital oases to quench their thirst, drawing predators. Even if you don’t see something quite so dramatic, photographers also love capturing iconic night time images at the floodlit water holes, for example, of a black rhino standing alert, or a giraffe bending down to drink.

The comfortable Anderson’s Camp is an ideal base from which to explore both Etosha and Ongava. It’s situated in the Ongava Game Reserve, on a water hole and borders the Etosha National Park. Here, you can enjoy guided day and night game drives to explore both parks’ diverse ecosystems.

In addition to these highlights, Namibia offers a wealth of other attractions for you to explore. From the coastal town of Swakopmund, where adventure activities abound, to the ancient rock art of Twyfelfontein, you’ll be sure to find many ways to fall in love with this vast and diverse country. 

Whether you’re seeking luxury, adventure, relaxation, or the chance to connect with nature, Namibia awaits.

Happy Travelling,
The Leopard Team

P.S To get the smallest inkling of what the night skies in NamibRand Nature Reserve look like, watch this timelapse video taken in 2023, by DarkSky Advocate Jeff Dai — “The view showcases the Milky Way stretching from the Southern Cross to the Northern Cross. The Small Magellanic Cloud and Large Magellanic Cloud are visible on the southern horizon. You can also find the faint zodiacal light and dazzling planet Jupiter at dawn.”

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Exploring Rwanda’s Breathtaking Gorilla Trekking Adventures

Rwanda, known as the “Land of a Thousand Hills,” is not only a land of majestic landscapes but also a sanctuary for one of the world’s most impressive megafauna – the mountain gorilla. Trekking to see these gentle giants in their natural habitat is often described as a life changing experience, for good reason.

A Life-Changing Encounter

The highlight of any visit to Rwanda is the chance to embark on a gorilla trekking expedition in the Volcanoes National Park. The anticipation builds from the previous evening when you get your hiking gear ready and perhaps attend a talk at your lodge, to learn more about mountain gorillas and their protection. Early the next morning, theory melts into reality when you encounter these magnificent animals up close.

Your guide will take you to the park headquarters and speak to the park rangers about getting you into an appropriate group. Groups are formed based on your ability. Older and less fit guests are assigned gorilla families closer to the bottom of the mountain, and those who are fitter might be assigned a group that will trek deep into the thick forest and up the steep mountain side. Gorillas move over a large range and so having a group close by is not always guaranteed. If you have difficulties walking, porters are available to carry you up the mountainside. 

Trackers who leave the gorilla families at their nest site late each afternoon head out at sunrise to catch up with their group, so their location is known. Your guide will drive you to the start of the trail, together with the park ranger. You may pay for a porter to carry your bag. Even if you don’t need the assistance, hiring a porter is a good way to support the local community. 

As you hike through the dense bamboo forests, guided by experienced trackers, the anticipation builds with every step. And then, when you catch your first glimpse of a gorilla family going about their daily lives, the sense of awe is overwhelming. Watching these incredible creatures interact with each other, play, and care for their young is a truly humbling and unforgettable experience. My first sighting was of four huge silverbacks and a black back that sauntered straight past me, as if I didn’t exist. (Play the video at the end of this newsletter for that memorable first sighting). I spent one hour with the Agashya Family which numbered around 25, including a newborn, a blackback and four silverbacks. The time flew by and I wished I had bought two permits, one for the next day too!

Conservation and Community Impact

Gorilla trekking in Rwanda is not only about tourism; it also plays a crucial role in gorilla conservation. The revenue generated from permits directly funds gorilla conservation projects and supports local communities. By providing sustainable livelihoods and promoting conservation education, Rwanda is ensuring that both gorillas and people can thrive together for generations to come.

Planning Your Gorilla Trekking Adventure

If you’re considering a gorilla trekking adventure in Rwanda, it’s essential to plan ahead. Permits are limited and in high demand, so booking early is advisable. Additionally, be prepared for a challenging hike, as the terrain can be rough and the altitude high. However, the reward of standing face to face with a mountain gorilla in the wild makes every step worth it.

Embarking on a gorilla trekking adventure in Rwanda is not just a journey into the heart of Africa’s wilderness; it’s a chance to connect with nature in its purest form and play a part in ensuring the survival of an endangered species. It’s an experience that will stay with you long after you’ve left the misty mountains of Rwanda behind.

Don’t hesitate to reach out to us for help and advice in planning a trip of a lifetime. 

Happy travelling,
Diana and the Leopard Team 

P.S. In 2022, The Ellen DeGeneres Campus of the Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund, dedicated to gorilla conservation, opened just outside Volcanoes National Park. Here you’ll find the Conservation Gallery exhibition space with a desk displaying some of pioneering gorilla conservationist Dian Fossey’s original typed field notes (the basis for her book “Gorillas In The Mist”), from 1969. There are also photos of Rwandan conservation heroes, as well as of the many of the creatures that live in the forest. This modern, environmentally-sustainable research and education center also has a laboratory where gorilla-related research currently takes place, as well as classrooms and student accommodation.

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Timbavati vs Sabi Sands, Which is Better?

Have you ever wondered whether the sound of your voice or a lion’s roar is more terrifying to your average wild animal?  A recent study published in Current Biology answers this question quite definitively. (You’ll find the answer at the bottom of this newsletter).

Speaking of lions, we often get asked, particularly by honeymoon couples looking to enjoy a Big Five safari vacation, “Which is better, Timbavati or Sabi Sands”? Both private concessions, which border the Kruger National Park (making up the Greater Kruger unfenced area), are among South Africa’s top draw cards for seeing Africa’s Big Five.  

We’ve shared a little about the differences you can expect at each destination below and we’d be happy to help you discover which lodge and which reserve is perfect for the type of safari that you envisage. 

Whether you’re looking for seclusion and romance or a lodge that would cater for a multi-generational family vacation. Or, perhaps, you’re travelling solo and you’re itching to capture breathtaking photos of elephants, or shoot a leopard hoisting its kill into a tree. Whatever you’re looking for, we’re here to help.

Accommodation options in Timbavati vs Sabi Sands
There’s a wide variety of accommodation available in both Timbavati and in Sabi Sands, including some self-catering options geared towards the local Southern African market and premium lodges.

In Timbavati, the accommodation can range from the comfortable but simpler Walkers Plains Camp to the sumptuous Tanda Tula. In Sabi Sands, a more affordable lodge would be Umkumbe, and an example of a premium luxury lodge would be the Dulini, Singita and &Beyond lodges. 

What makes Timbavati unique and what animals can you expect to see here?
Timbavati Private Nature Reserve is a truly untouched and unspoiled wilderness. Unlike other regions that have undergone restoration and rewilding efforts, Timbavati stands out as a genuine example of wilderness in its natural state.

According to Timbavati Reserve, it’s also “the only reserve where wild white lions occur regularly and naturally”. White lions are not a subspecies of lion but rather reflect a genetic trait, a recessive gene, that occurs in the area (much like the blue eyes in humans). 

The landscape of the Timbavati Reserve is also well-suited for plains game like wildebeest and impala. While it provides the opportunity to see all of the Big Five, other sightings, like that of wild dogs can also be very rewarding.  

What makes Sabi Sands unique and what animals can you expect to see here?
The Big Five game area of Sabi Sands is well known for its leopard conservation. While there is never a guarantees of seeing the most elusive big cat, if this is on your bucket list, Sabi Sands is an excellent place to seek them out.

Sabi Sands has more lodges than Timbavati, however, the lodges are very good at limiting the number of game drive vehicles to three or four (at most) per sighting, depending on how relaxed the animal is. This ensures the reserve doesn’t feel crowded.

The rich water supply from the Sabi and the Sand Rivers draws a high concentration of wildlife, making Sabi Sands one of the most bio-diverse wilderness areas in the country. Sabi Sands is known throughout South Africa as having some of the industry’s most well-trained and knowledgeable safari guides and rangers.

Choosing between Timbavati and Sabi Sands
There are many factors to consider when making your choice, for instance, the size of land that each private game reserve occupies can influence the likelihood of seeing certain animals, such as big cats that can cover large tracts of bush. If the reserve’s traversing area is smaller, it can limit the likelihood of seeing certain species. However, even in the larger reserves, there is never a guarantee of particular wild animal sightings and well-trained guides will ensure that you have an interesting and informative safari experience regardless.

Think about what’s most important to you and your partner, or family, and let us know. We’re happy to guide you through the decision-making process. 

Now, to answer the question about lions vs humans…

Are lions or humans scarier?
In a recent comprehensive experimental study conducted in South Africa’s Greater Kruger National Park, researchers investigated whether wildlife’s fear of humans surpassed that of lions. 

Using automated camera-speaker systems at waterholes during the dry season, they exposed various mammals to recordings of humans, lions, hunting sounds, or non-predator sounds, for example, birds. The results showed that animals fear humans significantly more than lions. This fear response was consistent across a wide range of species, with 95% exhibiting heightened fear towards humans over lions. “Fully 95% of species ran more from humans than lions (significantly in giraffes, leopards, hyenas, zebras, kudu, warthog, and impala) or abandoned water holes faster (significantly in rhinoceroses and elephants).” Wildlife were twice as likely to run and abandon waterholes 40% faster in response to human stimuli compared to lions or hunting sounds. 

This is one of the reasons that it’s important to be quiet (or speak softly when necessary) on safari in a game drive vehicle or on a walking safari. You don’t want to scare away the creatures and spoil the safari experience for yourself, or others.

Happy travelling,
The Leopard Team

P. S. If you haven’t booked your December break, reply to this email. We’d be happy to help. If you’re still undecided on where to go, look at our blog for inspiration. It’s our privilege to help you plan your next trip, no matter whether it’s far in advance or a spur-of-the-moment getaway.

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Victoria Falls & Chobe: Nature’s Grand Spectacles

Daphnée and I visited Victoria Falls and Chobe recently, to refresh our knowledge about these destinations and explore a mix of new and established lodges and hotels. Our adventure took us through four countries, where we visited 31 lodges. It’s safe to say our days were packed to the brim! Despite the furious schedule, we had an incredible time and relished the opportunity to immerse ourselves in the untamed beauty of Africa once more.

Victoria Falls
Victoria Falls, located on the Zambezi River at the border between Zambia and Zimbabwe, is one of the world’s largest and most awe-inspiring waterfalls. During the peak flow season, the spray and mist from the falls can rise to over 400 metres (1,300 feet) and be seen from up to 50 kilometres (31 miles) away earning it the local name, Mosi-oa-Tunya, which means “The Smoke That Thunders”. The falls stretch over 1,700 metres wide and drop up to 108 metres. What I find most enjoyable about visiting the falls, besides the dramatic beauty of the waterfall, is the beautiful rainforest that thrives due to a distinctive microclimate in the surrounding area that supports a wide variety of plants and animals.

There are three different lodge experiences you can have in Victoria Falls. If you’d like a good quality, comfortable guesthouse with personal service, stay in the town. This will also give easy access to all the town’s adventurous activities, like white water rafting and helicopter flips.

If you’d like a safari lodge on the water, with beautiful views, peaceful surroundings, and easy access to river boating activities, choose one of the excellent luxury safari lodges on the Zambezi River. If you’d like more privacy and exclusivity, choose a lodge on the Zambian side, such as Toka Leya or Tongabezi. One of the places I’d love to return to with my family is Tsowa Island because it’s exactly the type of wilderness experience we love. It’s remote, on the water, simple and offers excellent guiding and bird watching. I felt the same about the more rustic Ichingo Lodge on the Namibian side of the Chobe River. What my family and I love is not necessarily what my clients will love and  I always try to match a lodge with the type of experience my clients would like to have in Africa.

If you’d like a safari experience surrounded by African wildlife, choose a lodge south of the town, in the Victoria Falls National Park.

Chobe
Chobe National Park, located in northern Botswana, is renowned for its spectacular elephant population, boasting one of the largest concentrations in Africa. We saw so many of these gentle giants on our trip that we lost count! Excellent game drive safaris are possible in Chobe National Park, but what I like the most are the boat safaris one can do on the Chobe River. These allow you to witness unique animal behaviours not always visible from land. We spent 30 minutes watching two young male elephants crossing from an island back to the mainland. They wrestled, swam, sprayed water with their trucks and enjoyed life! We also encountered hippos, crocodiles, and many fascinating bird species on the islands and river banks.

Since there is only one lodge inside Chobe National Park, Daphnée and I would recommend staying outside the park at the Ngoma Gate side if you want a less crowded, more exclusive experience. The views out over the floodplain here are absolutely sensational. 

We also visited some gorgeous lodges on the Kasane side, which is a great option because all boat safaris start from Kasane, making them easy to access. If you stay in Kasane, you will enter the National Park via the Sedudu Gate. This can be crowded with most day visitors using this gate to enter the park, so it is best to go early.

We also visited a houseboat (Zambezi Queen) and two lovely lodges on the Namibian side, doing four border crossings in one day. African border crossings can be time-consuming and border officials can be annoying – like border officials everywhere. Ideally, it’s best to stay a few days in either location and not cross the border too frequently. Another tip for border crossings, if using a transfer to get from one lodge to the next, is to be aware that your driver will change at the Kazangula, or Vic Falls, border. Your driver on the originating side will hand you over to another driver at your destination to avoid the paperwork and extra cost of moving cars and people across the border. This process will be completely seamless with a reliable transfer operator.

If you are considering visiting Victoria Falls or Chobe, or including these destinations on a wider Africa itinerary, don’t hesitate to reach out to us for help and advice in planning a trip of a lifetime.

Happy travelling,
Diana and the Leopard Team