To celebrate my mom’s 75th birthday, we did what we both love best – escaped to the bush to hike among wild animals. The wilderness trail we chose was located in a very remote area of northern Kruger National Park, about a 90-minute drive from Punda Maria camp. It was this aspect of the trail, and the reputed beauty of the area, which attracted us. And we were not disappointed! 

Nyalaland Trail camp was built in the 1980s and is very basic. There are four huts, each with two beds, a modest storeroom, a kitchen, and a boma, where a kettle simmered endlessly over hot coals and where we gathered each evening. There’s no electricity, no cellphone signal, and a donkey (a fire-heated drum) provides hot water for showering. The evening soundtrack is a crackling fire, relaxed chatter under the open sky and the occasional call of a nightjar or owl.

During our safety briefing our guide, Christopher Muthathi, emphasised the remoteness of the camp and how we were surrounded by wild creatures. “Always wear closed shoes because there are deadly scorpions and venomous snakes around,” he warned.

We spent three nights in this wild place, rising just before dawn to hike for four to five hours each morning, with an additional walk to a sunset spot in the late afternoon. On the morning walk, we enjoyed a midmorning stop for a snack and then returned to the camp for a late brunch, at around midday. After this we had free time to relax before our late afternoon walk, followed by dinner back at camp. 

The hikes didn’t follow a set path. “We follow where the bush leads us,” explained Christopher. On the first day, we trailed along an elephant path along the Luvuvhu River, hiked up a rocky koppie and paused beneath ancient baobabs. We stopped regularly along the way to learn about termite colonies, and many other little-known secrets of the bush. At one point, I was very happy to see an elephant shrew darting through the undergrowth – one of the elusive ‘Little 5’. “That’s a rare sighting,” Christopher said. “They’re very shy creatures.” The pace was unhurried and as we walked through this magnificent landscape, I imagined the ancient way of life of our ancestors. Life took on a different rhythm. At the end of the day, my mom, Jean, said, “I felt so privileged to spend quiet time on the banks of the Levuvhu River, watching the pied kingfishers head off to their roosts as the sun set in all its glory.”  

On the second day, we drove to a wildlife-rich area where we encountered many birds, including lilac-breasted rollers, mottled spinetails and a martial eagle. We watched giraffe amble across the landscape, impala graze in the bush and also encountered waterbuck with their feathery face-framing fur. We carefully avoided the abundant buffalo (known for their aggressive nature) in the area. Along the way, we learned fascinating new information about how dung beetles navigate their way to dung (through mites) and about the mycelium (fungi) layer beneath the soil that trees use to communicate with each other. “It’s all connected,” said Sipho, our second guide.

Christopher was exceptional. From the way he curated the experience for us based on our specific interests, to his deep knowledge of the bush and his skill at leading our group, he was amazing. I would go as far as to say he was a better guide than those I have had at lodges that cost over USD 2,000 per person per night – and these guides tend to be outstanding. Our backup guide, Sipho, was also excellent, as was Winston, the camp chef. Each evening, we’d return dusty and tired to the smell of something warm and comforting from the kitchen. 

I highly recommend this trail for local South Africans and anyone looking for a raw and restorative experience in an untamed part of the country.

If you live abroad and plan to return to Africa for the second, third, or umpteenth, time and would like a unique safari experience – one that involves getting out of the vehicle and learning about the “little things” in the bush, I recommend a walking safari experience in South Luangwa or Lower Zambezi in Zambia. 

Here, if the sighting is safe and the animals are relaxed, you can approach predators such as lion, leopard and wild dog on foot. For those interested in a more tranquil nature walk, rather than the adrenaline of encountering dangerous animals on foot, this is also possible in most national parks in Africa, where the minimum age for walking is usually 12. And if you’re lucky enough to have your mom by your side, bring her along. Sharing time in nature is precious.

Happy Travelling,

Diana

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